Camino Francés Itinerary: Roncesvalles
Our comprehensive Camino Francés itinerary, the most traveled Camino de Santiago route, includes accommodations (albergues), points of interest, and personalized recommendations. We traveled on a budget, mostly opting for municipal albergues or donation-based parishes instead of hostels or hotels. The parish stays—with community dinners and pilgrim blessings—were our favorite experiences, and we actively sought them out.
We’ll also share alternate routes that we highly recommend—the ones we took and the ones we wish we had taken. Throughout the itinerary, you’ll find reflections and lessons learned along the way.
✨A Note Before You Start Booking
We do not recommend booking your entire Camino Francés itinerary before your trip. We booked the first three nights, but in hindsight, booking only the first two would have given us more flexibility. Create the outline, but you don’t need to have everything reserved before you leave.
You can’t predict how your body will feel, how fast you’ll walk, or when you’ll stumble across a charming town you’d love to linger in. Give yourself permission to be flexible and present. Let go of the need to plan every detail. Of course, it’s important to know where food and water are available—but leave room for spontaneity. That’s often where the magic happens on the Camino.
🚶 Stage 2: Roncesvalles
Day Total: 25.1 km
Cumulative Total: 25.1 km
Ascent: 1,390 m
The first walking day of the Camino de Santiago is a true challenge—but also incredibly rewarding. From Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port to Roncesvalles, you’re mostly climbing, and the steep ascent can be tough on both the legs and lungs. This stage is what many consider the hardest day on the Camino Francés, especially if you’re not physically prepared.
✨ Before You Go: Train for This Day
If you’re feeling unsure about your readiness, don’t worry—you’re not alone. We recommend preparing in advance, especially for this early stage. Our program, Training for the Trails, was created specifically to help you build the strength, flexibility, and stamina needed for long hikes like the Camino de Santiago.
🥖 Food & Rest Stops
There’s only one official stop for food between Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port and Roncesvalles: Le Refuge Orisson, about 8 km in. It’s a lovely place to pause, grab a sandwich, and enjoy the stunning view of the Pyrenees. Many pilgrims opt to spend the night here to split the difficult day into two parts. We didn’t stay overnight, but it looked cozy and the view alone made it worth the short rest.
After Orisson, there are no other food stops until Roncesvalles—so pack snacks and enough water for the full day. Trust us, you’ll need it.
🏡 Where We Stayed: Albergue de Roncesvalles
We stayed at the municipal albergue in Roncesvalles, our first experience with the large, communal-style hostels. This one has 183 beds—a sea of bunk beds—but it’s well organized, clean, and housed in a gorgeous old stone building. Despite the summer weather outside, the inside was freezing. Seriously—bring layers or a light blanket if you tend to get cold. A friend of ours ended up digging through the lost and found at 2 a.m. for extra layers!
🛏️ Cost: Around 10-12 euros
🍽️ Meal Options: You can purchase dinner and breakfast tickets at check-in for the two nearby restaurants. Ours was for Sabina for dinner—honestly, we didn’t love it. It felt overpriced, and the food was just okay. If you’re on a budget, consider saving your appetite for the next town for breakfast.
🌅 Wish We Had Known: Burguete-Auritz
Just 3.1 km past Roncesvalles is the charming village of Burguete-Auritz, where we wish we had stayed. Walking through it the next morning, we were greeted by picturesque homes, quaint cafés, and a small grocery store. Hostal Burguete, famously visited by Ernest Hemingway, still has his signature on the piano.
If you have the energy after Roncesvalles, consider continuing to Burguete. It’s quiet, less crowded, and more budget-friendly for food.
🧺 Lesson Learned: Pack Clothespins
With over 100 pilgrims staying at the albergue, the drying racks looked like a battlefield. The wind was relentless and clothes were flying everywhere. We ended up losing a shirt in the chaos (RIP Alejandro’s favorite tee 😅). Bring clothespins and label your gear when possible.
🐚 Camino de Santiago Tips for Stage 2
✅ Start early to avoid the afternoon heat
✅ Bring 1.5–2L of water and high-energy snacks
✅ Use trekking poles to help with the long ascent
✅ Dress in layers—it can get windy and cold, even in summer
✅ Take it slow; your body is still adjusting
Final Thoughts
Stage 2 of the Camino de Santiago is no joke—but it’s also one of the most beautiful and memorable parts of the Camino Francés. You’ll cross mountain ridges, take in breathtaking views, and feel your first true sense of accomplishment. Don’t rush it. Embrace the challenge, and listen to your body. If you would like to read more about our experience, check out my blog post Reflections of Day 1.
Next up: rustic villages, more communal meals, and finding our walking rhythm. See you in the next stage!
🥾 Get Physically Ready for the Camino
If you’re planning your Camino and wondering how to prepare your body for the miles ahead, we created something just for you.
Our Training for the Trails program is a yoga-based training plan designed to help you build the strength, stamina, flexibility, and lung capacity you’ll need on the Camino. It’s gentle yet effective—perfect if you’re not sure where to start or want to avoid injuries on the trail.
✅ Strengthen your legs and core
✅ Improve flexibility in hips and hamstrings
✅ Deepen your breath for endurance and focus
✅ Includes vinyasa yoga, yin yoga, and breathwork
Start your Camino feeling strong, steady, and supported.
